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I have a complicated relationship with crochet gauge and gauge swatches. As a creative soul, it’s hard to feel inspired by making a 6″ square, when really, I want to wear this gorgeous crochet sweater, like, yesterday.
So usually I skip it. And instead, I follow my crochet pattern exactly. I crochet carefully, so I don’t miss a single stitch, I’m totally positive I won’t make a single mistake, and I even use the exact same (crazy expensive and hard to find) European yarn the pattern recommends.
But the pattern still doesn’t come out right. Meanwhile, I am getting so frustrated I could scream, or pull my hair out in a fit of rage. I’m even starting to think about throwing the whole project away. But I won’t. Because, hello, expensive yarn.
Sound familiar? If you’ve ever crocheted a piece that didn’t come out how you’ve envisioned, even if you did everything right, this article will teach you how to solve your crochet gauge problems for good, so you can go on making those gorgeous hats and sweaters and blankets you’re dreaming of. Without pulling out all your hair first.
What is Gauge in Crochet?
Simply put, gauge is the measurement of how many stitches and rows there are in a predetermined area of crochet fabric. Usually, it has it’s own nice little subheading in a crochet pattern that looks a bit like this:
Gauge
14 stitches and 18 rows in 4″ square in single crochet.
If you’re anything like me, this seems like superfluous information. Ok, we’re using that stitch. Got it. Can we please get started already?
But matching (or NOT matching) the gauge listed in a crochet pattern can drastically affect the look, feel, size, and shape of your crochet projects. So if you like hats that fit their intended recipient, shawls that have a luxurious drape to them, and sweaters that, well, actually fit, you’ve got to learn about crochet gauge.
How Does Crochet Gauge Affect Your Finished Crochet Project?
To put it bluntly, gauge affects your entire piece by determining its finished proportions. If your gauge matches that of the designer’s, your piece will measure spot on, and your piece will look every bit as fabulous and amazing as it does in the photos.
But when your gauge is off, your finished item could come out looking, well, wonky. If there are more stitches in your gauge swatch than recommended, but you follow a pattern to the letter, your adult sized hat might fit your youngest nephew. (Been there. Made a Hat Size Checker to prove it.)
Related: How to crochet the right size hat with the flat circle method
You’ll also have a fabric that drapes similarly if you match gauge. That prevents you from making garments that are too stiff to wear comfortably, or amigurumi that are too floppy to hold their cute shapes.
If you have fewer stitches and rows per inch in your gauge, that adorably oversized sweater you’re making might end up looking more like a paper bag- that is to say, WAY bigger than you anticipated.
The worst part of it is, you might match the designer’s gauge on the width, but have shorter rows, due to your unique tension and crochet hook grip.
So How Do You Fix Your Crochet Gauge?
There are a few things to try editing to fix your crochet gauge: your hook size, your yarn weight, your familiarity with the stitch/pattern, and your tension and stitching habits. We’ll go over each one to help you figure out how each can troubleshoot a different type of gauge.
How Crochet Hook Sizes Affect Gauge
Every crochet hook has a size designation. In the US, we use both an alphanumeric label, and a millimeter measurement of the diameter of the hook shaft.
Why is that important? Your crochet hook creates a slight space between your yarn strands as you crochet. If you use a hook with a larger diameter, you’ll create slightly more space. But a smaller hook size will create less space.
Those spaces, combined with the weight of your yarn, dictate the size of your stitches, and therefore, determine your gauge- the number of stitches and rows per inch (or inches).
How to troubleshoot gauge by changing your crochet hook size:
If your gauge swatch is smaller than desired, or has more stitches and rows per inch than the designer’s sample, you’ll need to increase your hook size.
Vice versa, decreasing hook size can fix a gauge swatch that is bigger than desired, or has fewer stitches and rows per inch than listed in the crochet pattern.
How Yarn Weight Affects Gauge in Crochet
If you’ve learned to read crochet patterns, you’ll probably already know the difference between different weights of yarn. This is always listed in good crochet patterns, because if you try to make a hat designed in worsted weight with fingering weight yarn, you’ll get wildly different results.
Yarn weight, though, isn’t just a black and white sliding scale. Even within the broad categories of yarn weights there can be big variations. We’ll pick on Worsted [4] weights, because they’re most common.
Two of my favorite 4 weight yarns are Lion Brand Pound of Love and Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice. Both are Worsted [4] weight yarns, and both labels recommend a J/6.0 mm crochet hook work with.
But look closer, and you’ll notice there are approximate gauge suggestions, and they’re really different! Pound of Love has 14 stitches and 18 rows in 4 inches, while Vanna’s Choice has only 12 stitches, and 15 rows.
This information tells us that while they’re in the same general category, Pound of Love is ever so slightly thinner than Vanna’s Choice. So if you’re substituting one for the other, you’ll need to make adjustments to reach the correct size.
How to adjust gauge using yarn weight:
If your yarn is thinner than the yarn suggested in the pattern, you might consider going up a hook size or two as needed to match gauge.
If your yarn is thicker than the suggested yarn, a smaller hook might help you meet the gauge in your crochet pattern.
Why Does My Gauge Change as I Learn a Crochet Pattern?
Another factor in your gauge is your familiarity with the crochet pattern, and how comfortable you are with the techniques and stitches required.
Personally, I’ve had lots of funky gauge issues because I start off with a pattern that’s outside my comfort zone, and tense up slightly as I channel all my focus into completing a row correctly. Then, as I learn the techniques and get more comfortable, I relax, and my tension grows- sometimes dramatically. It’s frustrating!
What’s the best way to get comfortable with a new crochet pattern, stitch, or technique?
Two words: Gauge Swatch. If you have this problem, it can be really helpful for you to actually make a gauge swatch. That way, you can learn and practice the techniques on a small scale, instead of finding out halfway through a blanket that it’s going to be way off.
How Does Tension Affect Crochet Gauge?
Your tension comes from several different habits, and can be the hardest to change. That’s why I saved it for last.
However, this can be the only fix for gauge swatches that meet one dimension but not the other- for example when you have the same stitches in width as a designer, but more or fewer rows.
How to compensate for tension:
If you keep a very tight tension on your yarn, your stitches will contract slightly around your crochet hook. Often, this can be remedied by using a larger sized crochet hook than called for in the pattern.
The opposite is true for looser tensions. Go for a smaller hook if your tension is very flowing and loose, and you’ll find your stitches even up and get a little tighter.
If you find this still doesn’t fix it, consider using another method to hold and tension your yarn.
How Does My Stitch Technique Affect My Gauge?
If you have trouble meeting the row height, your stitching habits might be the reason. Here’s how that happens:
Tugging down on the working yarn after drawing up a loop in a stitch compresses your row height. Likewise, yanking on the working thread after completing a stitch makes stitches narrower. That affects the final width of your stitch.
Some crocheters instead lift with their hook after finishing a stitch. That makes for wider stitches. Lifting the working yarn after pulling up a loop in the stitch can also increase your row height.
How to compensate for lifting and tugging habits:
Practice, and be aware of your habits. Notice as you crochet whether you tend to lift your hook after a stitch, or if you habitually tug your working yarn.
Once you have figured out which habit is affecting you, focus on changing it. Making a gauge swatch is a perfect way to practice.
How to Fix Crochet Gauge Problems
Problem: Too many stitches and rows in swatch. Swatch is too small.
Your gauge is too tight.
Possible solutions:
- Increase hook size.
- Use slightly heavier yarn weight.
- Loosen your tension.
Problem: Not enough stitches or rows in swatch. Swatch is too big.
Your gauge is too loose.
Possible solutions:
- Decrease hook size.
- Use slightly lighter yarn weight.
- Tighten your tension.
Problem: My width is right, but I have too many rows.
Possible solutions:
- Check that you aren’t tugging your working yarn during the stitch.
- Check that you’re using the correct weight of yarn.
Problem: My swatch is the right size, but doesn’t have enough rows.
Possible solutions:
- Check whether you are lifting your working yarn during your stitches.
- Check whether your yarn weight is correct.
Gail Zlotky says
Thank you for this post I am going to try your ideas. Thanks a million
Katie says
Hi Gail, Glad this was helpful for you! Once you figure out gauge, crochet becomes a lot more fun and creative- you can use it as a tool to create anything you can envision!
Katie
Zena says
Thanks so much. Very informative and useful
Katie says
So glad you found this useful! Getting gauge right can make a huge difference in your projects.
Tina says
I often find in crochet and knitting that the width is right, but not the length, or vice versa. It has put me off rather as I take a chance on my garment’s outcome and, with all the time, expense and effort involved, I don’t want to be disappointed. I am not sure how to change my technique, if that is the problem. Your piece is the only time I have ever seen my gauge problem addressed. Even if I can’t work it out, thank you for recognising this problem.
Katie says
Hey Tina!
You’re so welcome. I’m glad this helped! It is super frustrating when you only have half of the gauge right, isn’t it? Often that’s just because you crochet a little differently than the designer (which is totally normal and not anyone’s fault!)
I’m noticing LOTS of people commenting the same thing so I’ll probably try and do a whole post on it soon but in the meantime, you could try experimenting with your tension on the yarn- if your row height is too much, tugging just slightly on that stitch can help it to snug down a bit (or lifting with the hook can help it get a smidge of extra height).
Good luck figuring out what works for YOU and your unique yarn tension!
Katie
Julia says
Thank you SO MUCH for providing such GREAT insight into the need to do Gauge Swatches BEFORE you try a new pattern! I’m just learning to read Crochet patterns and wondered why the Gauge information was provided. Your writing is very well written and easily understood. You made it even better by including the Problem and possible solutions at the bottom to summarize your article beautifully!
Katie says
So glad this was helpful, Julia! <3 Thanks for the lovely comment.
Katie
Melissa says
Thank you so much for including a section on getting one thing in gauge (stitch or row) but not the other (row or stitch). So often people teaching about gauge will only focus on changing your hook size or yarn size, etc, but that has never helped me … and I think it’s because I can get stitch gauge but not row gauge. Now I can’t wait to start experimenting with my stitch techniques to see what can happen! Thanks again!
Katie says
Hi Melissa!
You’re so welcome, I’m really glad this was helpful for you! I had the same problem quite often when I was learning, because I used to be so tense I would really tug the working yarn, and my stitches would be short. It changed everything when I learned that, and was able to relax some! So glad more people can learn it now, too.
Happy hooking,
Katie
Jean says
This is so helpful! I figured if I had the right yarn and the right hook it should work. And yet, even when I take it apart 3 or 10 times and move down to a smaller size I still can’t make it work. I have never really paid attention to the gauge and now I will so maybe next time I won’t be tearing apart patterns over and over again. Thanks.
Katie says
You are so welcome, Jean! Glad it was helpful for you! I really hope this post can help people have just a little easier time crocheting- I know when I was starting there were a few times I quit for a week after getting frustrated!
Katie
Andrea Simone says
Hi Katie,
I have a habit of purchasing yarn that I love before I have picked out a project. Rarely adhering to the gauge swatch suggestion, I know I will find your tips helpful. When reading the yarn information on the sleeve regarding the gauge swatch, my biggest issue is “how do you know what stitch are they using”?
Thanks, Andrea
Katie says
Hi Andrea!
This question keeps coming up! That swatch on the label is to help you figure out how thick the yarn is, not to match gauge for a pattern. It’s more for people who like to freehand a sc or knit stockinette scarf or blanket without a pattern. If you are using a pattern, you should match your gauge to whatever stitch the designer suggests- usually it will be in the gauge section of the pattern. Hope that’s helpful!
Katie
Allison says
I have a pattern that calls for 1447 yards of worsted yarn but I’m trying to figure out what wool as how much to get.
My problem is the gauge in the pattern
13 sts and 9 rows equal 4” in hbdc with 5.5 mm hook
Every gauge I have looked at is based on sc not hbdc.
Katie says
Hi Allison,
The gauge on the yarn label wouldn’t match the gauge for a pattern- it’s more to give you an idea of if it’s thicker or thinner within the cagtegory. I would recommend buying your worsted weight yarn you like, and then working up a small swatch in hbdc with a hook and adjusting your hook size, not your yarn choice. Does that help?
Thanks for writing in and good luck!
Katie
Amanda Nichols says
I was about to hang up my new crotchet hobby, this post saved me! Thanks so much!
Katie says
Amanda, I’m so glad to hear that! I have done the same when I was learning, but thankfully only for about a week or so before I came back to it- I was hooked. 😛
Happy hooking,
Katie
Kelly King says
I’m working a baby blanket with a heart design done in double crochet surrounded by skipped stitch squares. The gauge seemed right at first, but after finishing the last row in the repeat, the hearts are short and wide instead of nicely shaped. I can’t figure out how to fix this. I followed the pattern exactly.
Katie says
Hi Kelly!
This happens to me a lot when I’m working on blanket patterns. I found that for me, it ussually means that I’ve changed my tension because I’ve had to work on the project for a long stretch of time, and in different moods and stress levels- when I’m feeling very overwhelmed, my shoulders get very tight and that makes me grip my hook and work in a much tighter tension. If you’ve triple checked that you didn’t accidentally skip a row (I do that sometimes!) I would guess that might be what’s happening.
Hope that helps, and sorry I can’t sit with you and have a look in person. Maybe you could find a crochet club/buddy to be a fresh set of eyes, too!
Happy hooking,
Katie
Sonja says
Thank you for publishing this article. I am working on my first cardigan and i have already done to gauge swatch and i’m not quite able to reach the patterns listed gauge.
I decided to do a search so i could get an idea of what to try next and after reading your article, i feel i have a better understanding and idea of what to try next.
Your article has made me feel more confident and doused my frustration in trying to start off on the right foot.
Great job!
Katie says
Hi Sonja,
I’m SO happy to hear this article made it just a little easier for you to crochet that first cardigan! That’s such a big goal for so many crocheters, myself included, and I’m really happy you’re feeling more confident about it! Thanks for writing in, and happy crocheting!
Katie
Marian O'Rourke says
An excellent and informative article. I will try to curb my enthusiasm somewhat but get practicing on perfecting my gauge for both knitting and crochet. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Katie says
So happy to hear this helps, Marian! Gauge is my least favorite to spend time on, but when you do it makes everything look SO much better!
Happy hooking,
Katie
Bella says
Hi, sorry what do you mean by “lifting the working yarn”? Thank you for this helpful post 🙂
Katie says
Hi Bella,
When you crochet you probably have a set way of doing things- but if you need a shorter or taller row gauge, you could lift the working yarn slightly and tug it just a smidgen tighter to get a shorter row, or lift your hook to lengthen it just a bit taller. That’s what I mean by lift the yarn. Hope that helps!
Katie
Marg says
Hi, can you please tell me if there is a standard crochet stitch you are supposed to use when crocheting a swatch. Often on a yarn label it does not state this information just the number of stitches and rows?
Thanks!
Katie says
Hi Marg,
When you’re working a swatch, you should be using the main stitch from the pattern you’re using, unless your pattern indicates otherwise. A great pattern will have a gauge listed with dc, or some sort of measurement in it, but sometimes it’s not included for scarves since they’re not sized. A sweater pattern should definitely have one listed though!
Since the yarn company doesn’t know which pattern you’re using, they usually only provide basic swatch instructions for sc or a knit stockinette stitch to help you find the right hook/needle size.
Hope that helps answer your question!
Katie
Elin says
This is a wonderful article. Thank you for breaking it down so nicely and neatly!
Katie says
I’m so glad it was helpful for you, Elin! Happy crocheting. <3
Katie
ann says
thank you for this , I can crochet all kinds of things but when it comes to any blanket super easy to hard my blankets come out curved every single time or ruffles I could not figure out what Im doing wrong I follow the pattern perfectly, hook yarn everything I have frogged hours of work but im not giving up Im not a crochet quitter so your site and this post helped alot thanks.
Katie says
So happy this helped you feel more confident to keep crocheting! I’ve definitely been in your shoes before having a project just go wonky, but I’m so glad I kept crocheting anyway. You’re amazing! Thanks for stopping to comment.
Katie
Kay says
Thank you so much for this much needed information.
Mary H says
Hi Katie thank you so much for this article. It really help me a lot. I am trying to make a hat in which the pattern suggest 2 weight yarn. Due to my arthritis, it is hard for me to work with such small yarn weight and hook. How do I adjust my gauge if I use 4 weight yarn. Or should I cut in 1/2 the stitches and rows in the pattern . I am afraid if I decrease the hook size my work is going to be too tight. Please help.
Katie says
Hi Mary!
You’re right that you’ll end up changing the stitch count and number of repeats, instead of the hook size. This sort of project is how I got started pattern designing.
I won’t be able to tell you exactly how much to do, because you’ll need to do a small swatch to figure out how many stitches you’ll need.
I will say though that a 4 weight yarn isn’t just twice as big as a 2 weight, it’s closer to 4 times as thick, so you’ll definitely want to experiment with a swatch.
If you’re making a top down hat, you might have luck using my Crochet Hat Size Checker, too!
Hope that helps, and happy experimenting!
Katie